A minor replacement becoming a MAJOR project

I’m sorry but again the blog is mostly about maintenance, I promise next post will be about life and places when sailing, but off season life in harbor contain a lot of maintenance, repair and improvement, actually an important and major part of cruising.

A new plotter

At the end of last season we noticed that the touch control on our chart plotter or MFD as it also is called, did not work properly. Fortunately it also has a “key board” so it still works but felt rather uncomfortable to use. A bit disappointing as the MFD is only 4 years old, after browsing on internet I found that it is not an uncommon problem. Not such a big deal we rather quickly decided to buy a new MFD the Axiom 9 from Raymarine.  BUT then looking where I could make a good deal, I found a very “attractive” package deal, a Quantum Radar and an Axiom 9. I have been thinking of replacing our existing Furuno radar, an excellent radar but very power hungry (8A 24v), the quantum radar draw less than 1 A and users praise it. So that was ordered and delivered rather fast, but I need a radar bracket, as well soon to be found on Internet.

Up in the mast preparing for mounting the bracket

Up in the mast mounting the bracket

 

Radar bracket

Radar bracket and cables in place

oznorCBT

After hanging in the mizzenmast for three days the radar doom was finally in place. Decided to keep the old radar, at least for a while until I can determine if the new radar is as good as the old one.

New and old MFD

The old MFD to the left worked good as a radar screen the touch function not so important operating a radar. The new MFD to the right in the picture. It is a great improvement to have a radar screen at the helmsman place

So it was a bit more work than just replacing the old MFD with a new one, but this was just the beginning!

Our old AIS only have NMEA 0183 and the new MFD talk NMEA 2000, so I need an interface to connect the AIS with my Axiom, the Interface cost ca 200 Euro, a bit sour that was not part of the plan. Internet is fantastic? I found a B&G VHF with integrated AIS and NMEA 2000, an outgoing model for 279 euro, now I can replace my old VHF who does not have DSC (distress function) for the cost of “79 euro”, a given…. and easily get AIS to our MFD!

I ordered the VHF and it arrived, but where to place it? To make a long story short I found I had to rearrange the whole nav station to get a good placement of the VHF. At the same time I could convert my solar and battery control system to blue tooth to get rid of some displays.

Nav station 1

Half way through to ripping out the instrument

New Front 1

Making new fronts in Plexiglas for mounting the instruments

Cutting Plexi

Sawing in Plexiglas works OK, but drilling was more difficult, very easy to get cracks, but I manage well, did not have to redo any panels

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Work in progress

For a not so handy man there are several challenges, one was how to get access to fasten the VHF on the back side?

VHF 1

On one side plenty of space for inserting a screw, but on the other side, very limited space, but a threaded rod VHF 2

And a piece of fuel hose

VHF 3

And the VHF is firmly in place. You can se a fuse box in the picture as I was poking around in the area with a lot of cables I decided to tidy up a bit, by taking away the in line fuses and install proper fuse boxes, one for 12 v and one for 24 v, plenty of work as replacing a few cables as well.

Pannel 4

As well as a new stereo, rather pleased with the result,

But the original a few hours work to replace the old MFD, became 4 weeks hard work!

Nav station now in place

VHF and SSB close to each other, nice? The observant reader might think is it not very practical to have the VHF station down at the chart table? is it better to have the VHF in the cockpit. Yes it is, and of course there is a solution to that.

B&G Remote unit

B&G sell a remote hand held unit to have in the cockpit not so much work to add but more cost, the discounted Axiom 9 MFD I bought, did not only create a massive amount of work, in the end the cost became many times higher than anticipated, a well known fact for most boat owners.  But we got Bluetooth monitoring of our solar panels and  battery management

Blue tooth SP

11 Amps going in 311 W from 360 watt panels not to bad.

Blou tooth SP monitoring

Yield the day before was 2 kw from the same panels, coming fall we will replace the old Turkish panels we have on the arc with new modern high yield panels witch will get almost 2 times the effect on just a fraction more surface, The list gets longer…

After Work

We sometimes  took a walk in the quiet lock  down Lagos for an occasional drink, to rest from the boat work

Sushi

Sometimes to tiered to make dinner then a Sushi take-away was ordered, not bad for 20 euro 

When we were at it, we also replace to old nav station chair with a new one, of course they had different tube size for attachment.

Chair base 1

The old tube, I did not want to replace the base, because the old base is an integral part of the structure so very firm.

I found some sewers pipe connectors that fitted well in the old tube and after some grinding gave perfect fit to put the new Aluminium tube on top of it, to get a solid installation.

Chair Base 2

Nav station chair

Nav station with chair and new VHF etc.

rhdrCaptains Chair 2

We also made some new padding for the helmsman’s chair the old was rather uncomfortable. Kerstin is happy now when she gets a more comfortable place to helm Kerpa from.

But that is not the end of it, more work to follow

Cutter gibb 1Cutter gibb 2

The attachment for the cutter jib was not very neat and not strong enough, it had bent a bit so we had a new stronger one made.

Cutter gibb 3

8 mm 316 Stainless Steel and two extra bolts, this should be strong enough and looks much nicer.

 

Chaos 1

As always working on the boat it is chaos aboard, but finally we said to each other, enough is enough and decided to postpone a long list of work to after this season as it will be a short season about 3 month of sailing before we go on the hard.

 

So we provisioned and caste of and sat course to Ferragudo, less than 10 Nm from Lagos

REWARD

Ferragudo 1

Anchored outside Ferragudo

Enjoying one of the best hamburgers ever

Hamburger

Kerstin took one with salmon as topping, it was surprisingly good, I took a regular one that was delicious, can’t compliant on the setting either

Ferragudo 2Ferragudo 3Ferragudo 4

marvelous sitting there having a hamburger for lunch, we had only planed for a short lunch but it was so nice so we stayed for a few glasses of Sangria as well before heading to a neighboring boat for a sun-downer, a bit headaches the next morning.

Next stop Rio Formosa…..

Posted in Seglingsförberedelser | Leave a comment

Wished I was a handy man

I grew up with boats, and in those days, boats were very plain. We had wooden rowing boats, a small but heavy open sailing boat built of oak with lug rig and sails in cotton. Springtime we varnished the hull, anti-fouling was red lead, and below the floorboard’s linseed oil, and of course linseed putty to keep the boat floating. Occasionally we tried the ancient way to seal a leaking boat by putting a bucket or two of anthill under the boat, the water seeping in brought the anthill in between the swelling boards and worked as caulking. Wooden boats built is pine, spruce or mahogany are rather easy to stop leaking, but a boat of oak is more difficult.

Later on the boats grew bigger and better, but still with today’s standard very plain.

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1979 archipelago Baltic east coast

A double-ender clinker-built sailboat about 24 feet long with an outboard, tok us around the Baltic.

Dungungen

As mentioned earlier not to difficult to get a boat not leaking from below but from above it was more difficult thus the tarpon wrapped over the deck and cabin that season, before we got it reasonable waterproof

Lunch på Åland

The life then was simple a fire on the rocks which of course nowadays is a “no no” as it scares the cliffs badly, but we did not know better those days.  A coffee pot over the fire and a hot dog in the open flame provided lunch.

Not until the early nineties we got a more modern boat a Maxi 108 which we hade the pleasure to sail most holidays and many weekends for 13 years.

Kadira1

Life was still rather simple

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But we had fantastic summers with the family close together.

So my experience from earlier sailing did not gave me much experience to maintain, improve and repair a true blue water sailing boat such as the Amel Super Maramu, one can have many opinions about the Amel but is not plain or simple, rather sophisticated and despite 20 years old still it could be considered loaded with gadgets even compared with boats of today. But Kerpa is 20 years old so time for maintenance, improvements and repair and then it helps a lot to be a handy man, which I’m not. I remember the first year we had the Maxi 108, one day the engine did not start, nothing happened when I turned the ignition key! I opened and had a look at the engine, but I could as well had opened a random page of the Coran in Arabic, it would have enlightened my as much. I realize that if I’m going to fulfill my dream of one day sail around the world I need to know more about how to maintain and fix malfunction things on a boat. At that time I was convinced that if I would sail around the world it would be in a boat with a similar size and complexity as our Maxi 108 (35 feet) and not an Amel.

Over the years I have learned a few things, even changing a head gasket on a one cylinder diesel engine! install a heater, new instruments a lot of plumbing and electric wiring, all of this work a qualified boat builder would probably have said it’s a “bungler work”, and he would not be totally wrong.

After soon 5 years with Kerpa it is time for some serious maintenance, I have time now Kerpa is moored in Lagos Marina less than 10 minutes’ walk from our flat. We where not supposed to cast of until August this year, but now with the Corona crises we probably postpone the departure until 2021.

Maintenance and repair

For you who love sailing but do not fancy reading about maintenance you might better scroll down to the end, but if you read you will learn that owning a boat is not always a ” dance on roses” by continue reading you might learn from my mistakes? If you own an Amel you will probably  enjoy it either you are a handy man (probably a few laugh) or a bungler

Our outhaul gear box gave very strange noise when using it, so I thought it is time to service, not only the outhaul, but the whole furling system for the main sail.

Outhaul maintenance

One of the main challenges when servicing the out haul gearbox I have understood is to get the shaft of.

dav

The bolt broke when we where approaching Bermuda, that was the first sign we got of the urgent need for service. The shaft goes through the boom and down through the gear box, and it get stuck after a few years without service.

 

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It does not look good when the gear box cover is off, should be oil, not grease in the box, and it did not help getting the shaft off either.

Outhaul 5

A large bearing puller should do the job I hoped, but no it did not!

Outhaul lid

But I manage to crack the lid of the gearbox.

Outhaul 6

Finally after a lot of hammering with a large sledge hammer heating with a blowtorch I manage to get the shaft off but it took several days. Now the big question, can I fix the gear box? I need new lids, where to get them? Through the Amel forum I found a company in USA who made lids by 3D printing in plastic ( interesting) I ordered them at a price, but still 4 month later noting have arrived yet. Luckily, I had a spare gear box, so just install that one.

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Then it was a rather quick fix. This time I put a lot of Lanocote on the shaft, so I guess it will not get stuck to bad now, I will have on my maintenance schedule to remove and insert the shaft at least every year to make sure it won’t get stuck again.

It was a play between the gearbox and the flange on the boom, the hole diameter was 9 mm and the screws are only 5 mm, but I inserted I piece of a fuel hose as a busing, fuel hoses are great for many things especially as spacers or shock absorber for pumps and fans.

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Fuel hose I do not know how long it will last but easy to put in a new when needed.

An other way to use fuel hoses put a thin hose into a larger hose and you get a very

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durable spacer or used it as a “silent block” when mounting pumps or fans it takes away a lot of the vibration and noise. easy to cut to desired length, and easy to carry as spare part.

Main furler

Main gearbox 6

Maine furler has three parts the furling mechanism, the gear box and the electric engine.

First I serviced the main furler

Main furler 1

Easy to get off and relatively easy to dismantle

Main Furler 2

But rather messy.

Main furler 4

It was nothing wrong with the bearing pictured but I wanted to take it away and replace it with a new one, but I did not manage to get it off and I spent quite some time on figuring out how to do it but in the end I let it be there. Now I have a new spare bearing. I replaced the other bearing and the lip seals and put it together.

I must confess, when everything was back in place and tested I had a look at the remains from my work

Gear box parts

I found a piece I did not know where it came from until I looked at the picture below.

Main furler 3

You see the tube at the right in the picture, that was the piece I found, Just had to take the furler off and dismantle it and put it back again, not without a problem, Wold not happened a handy man!

The main gearbox

To my surprise I found that the gear box that I had repaired in Turkey (actually I had them both repaired in Turkey at Emec marine), was put back in place with broken lids.

Main gearbox 2

They painted all things they fixed and you can see they even put paint n the o-ring! It was equal bad on the other side.

Main gearbox 3

The gear box apart no oil in this one either.

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And again a shaft to get of, the inner shaft is made by aluminium totally stuck in the outer stainless steel shaft holding the gear. After a lot of trying, heating, thinking of alternative solutions, a lot of time spent. I finally bite the bullet and order a new Gear box with a new shaft at the hefty price of 945 Euro plus VAT and freight from Amel.

It  arrived, and it is only to attach the plastic pieces that so that it could be bolted to its place.

Main gear box 1

It took of the screws holding the lids, the lids was firmly in place by paint and the lip seal. Looking for a few things then my wife said, there is some oil here what is that coming from? You can’t guess from where, can you? Well it came from the gear box, the oil came out from the screw holes, a new lesson for me. I did said a few foul word!

Main furler gearbox 5

I had no option but to take off one lid and put in new oil, but then I notice that the O-Ring between the house and the lid has expanded and was way too long to put back in place. I was not happy, NOT HAPPY AT ALL more not so nice words came out from my mouth. What to do? Then I remember that I bought a O-ring kit for making my own O-Rings, where is it? Luckily, I found it rather quick, so just make an O-Ring.

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But guess what? the glue was totally solid. Most shops are closed as it was in the beginning of the Corona issue. I thought the Chinese they might have the right glue and still be opened. Luckily they were open and had the right glue. Back to the boat and make an O-ring on the third attempt it was acceptable. Now to put it in place, then the bottom lid fell of and the same with that O-ring had to make one again but this time it was OK on my first attempt, learning curve in the right direction. One lesson learned always make sure the glue you have aboard is fresh else it is of no use.

Further to the burden was the slot wedge supplied did not fit to the slot in the shaft, it was too wide and too long!

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I got use for my vise, hack saw and file, a lot of time wasted, it takes a time for a not so handy man.

Before putting the whole thing back I had to fix the play between the furler and the furling profile, it is a rather common issue and need to be attended to regularly

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The hole is oval I earlier fix it with epoxy filler and putting in an Aluminium tube with the original size of the hole, worked for two years. One solution is to cut the profile and make a new hole, but I save that as a last resort, instead I again filled the hole with epoxy filler drilled a hole and inserted a fuel hose to get some flex

Then everything back in place it worked great, but as I mentioned earlier I found a piece left that needed to be put in place so out with everything and then back again, guess what? I manage to bust a thread in aluminium!!!!!! But I found a quick fix/Bunglers fix for that.

Mizzen boom trawler

I have long wanted to be able to control the position of the mizzen boom from the cockpit, and that was a rather straight forward job

Mizzen track

The most cumbersome job was to cut the end part of the track to be able to slip on the new end piece, but with Sandvik hack saw blade (never save on cutting tools, always buy the best money can get it pays off)  it was easier than I thought.

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End pieces in place, to start I just use the pollard at the cockpit for fastening the control line, if that is not to my satisfaction there are several ways to make a good solution later on. The SS screw you see is to blind the holes for the old end piece a very simple and maybe also a bungler solution? Fine with me anyhow. This I’m sure will be a great improvement for very little efforts.

Solar panels

I mounted two 150 w ridged solar panels on the rail when we were in St Martin about a year ago, they work OK but are very sensible for shadow as they has to be in series. After a lot of browsing on internet I found 72 cells 36 v 180 watt solar panels, I decided to replace the old ones, it was an easy job as they had almost the same size so a quick job.

72 cell solar panel

old panel

72 cell solar panel 2

New panel, notice the difference in number of cells between the two.

With the new panels in place  one notice big difference, even murky days so now I’m thinking of replacing my 3×150 watt panels on the arc to 3×180 watt 36 v, they also have more or less the same size. They have less shadow, but sure it will be a significant improvement.

Solar panels

Finally on solar, I have 2×100 flexible on the bimini, they do not give much as a lot of shadow there, but maybe 2×90 watt on each side of the boom would be a good idea, then I would have 1260 watt, that is a lot for a monohull.

Plumbing

Old toiletbase

Old toilet

The old aft toilet base was beyond repair, so decided to order a new Jabsco silent flush

New ToiletNew Toilet 2

on an  Amel everything in contact with salt water should be connected with the zink to avoid corrosion, I have done this a few times as the Motor/Pump starts to leak after about two years, the difference this time the bolt broke off!!!!, I quickly gave up the process of trying to get off the broken part as I had one spare pump since before.

New Toilet 3

At last the new toilet in place only remain same cleaning.

The manual bilge pump has stopped working so  I  had ordered a repair kit, guess what I found when disassembling the pump?

Bilge Pump

I found the nut and thread on the shaft broken, so now I’m Waiting for a new pump to arrive! I have ordered a lot off stuff on internet, and despite the corona times many things have arrived very fast, but some still waiting for.

Other maintenance/Improvements

Passarelle

We guess we will not have so much use for our hydraulic passarelle for our future sailing plans, It is a bit in the way for our Hydro-Generator, a very heavy thing so there would be several benefits to take it off,  and finally rather old and will soon require maintenance.

Passarelle 1

Passarelle 2

Now it is off, Kerstin is covering the old holes with butyl tape as temporary sealant before we have found out how to do it properly and good looking.

Passarelle 3

She looks better this way but the list increased from 1,5 to 2 degrees to port the passarelle was a heavy piece.

Deck lights

We need better deck light on the aft section, I thought the Arc is a good place to mount them, the only issue is the wiring,

Junction box

A connection box in the Lazarette, to pull the wire through the arc was rather easy more hard work to get it to the cockpit, but after some job it was there.

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it always become a mess inside when working

The lights in place, one on each side on the arc

Deck lighgt 1

After wiring this should not be big thing to mount the lamps itself, but  guess, the slot for the nut was to small so I had to file down the nut Am I the only one with bad luck with new things or?

More work

But in the end it will be a great improvement for dark nights working on after deck.

Lagos

Lagos is a nice place to relax in between boat jobs,

Now in Corona times the whole town is more or less deserted

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The marina usually bustling with life is now deserted, but we are happy to be here, It was just a vagary from me who got us back to Lagos else we would have been stuck somewhere in the Caribbean.

Now we are in a nice place

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Lagos harbour entrance

Movie from one of the beaches not fare to walk to from our flat.

We are allowed to go shopping for groceries and other necessities

Que

Only a limited number of people are allowed into the shop, when queuing there should be two meters apart.

The Gym is closed so we do some exercises on our balcony

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We have a three page long list remaining of things to do on Kerpa so we will be occupied for month to come and maybe even I can become not a handy man, but hopefully no longer a bungler.

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Portugal

After Baiona we sailed down to Lexion just north of Porto, Portugal, not much wind but we had some very nice visits by Dolphins.

Leixoes is a good place to stop at, it offers a low-cost marina 32 Euro a day for our 53 feet, or you can anchor safely just outside the marina.

Leixoes 1 (Copy)

It is a nice walk along the waterfront to this famous restaurant (the building with read roof) Casa de Chá da Boa Nova, designed by one of the world most famous architects Pritzker Siza Vieira, We assumed the cost for dining there was above our budget so we had a Pizza on a nearby restaurant instead. If the restaurant does not interest you, there is a nice chapel just nearby, and a light house.

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Along the waterfront there are nice beaches but water temperature is not so welcoming to our new standard for leisure swimming

Leixoes Beach

Porto

From Leixoes it is easy to get to Port, a bus stop just outside the marina and after ca 50 minutes you are in downtown Porto

Porto Town

Porto is an impressive city with ca 240.000 inhabitants. Porto is a very old town, during Roman time it was know as Portus Cale a name that later gave name to Portugal. 1392 the famous Henry The Navigator was borne in Porto, or as he is called in Portugal Henrique o Navegador.

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Both impressive buildings and interesting narrow alleys, as well as street arts

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But I assume the Douro water-front area is the most popular area

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Porto Bridge

Brave kids jumped from the bridge into the water, then they collect money from the tourists. It is almost 20 meters down to the water, that is high!

On the river Douro, Port wine was transported down to warehouses in Porto

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Now the traditional boats transport tourists instead

PortoPort Wine 3

I can recommend strolling along the water-front and of course buy a bottle of Port-wine

PortoPort Wine 4

It tasted great with some well matured cheese and crackers when back on Kerpa.

Douro trip

We rented a car for a few days, the first trip was along the Douro Valley

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Very beautiful

Douro 6

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Further up the valley the grapes become the major crop

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Douro valley is the most important wine area in Portugal

It attracts a lot of tourists traveling on the river, they must then pass this massive lock

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It was a very nice and beautiful trip but the highlight was our stay in a small and old mountain village Poiares, we stayed at what we guess was and old rectory house

Poiares 1

The building was more than 300 years old

Poiares 4Poiares 3Poiares 2

With an impressive courtyard

Poiares 5

where we enjoyed a plain dinner and a glass of wine

Inside it was not less impressive

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The breakfast area, not too bad.

sdr

View from the village.

We do recommend you to try AirBnB if you have not done it yet, it is often much cheaper than a hotel, definitely more interesting and it give you the opportunity to get in contact with local people.

Coimbra

Next Stop was Coimbra an important town in Portugal, it was the capital city 1139 to 1260, but now more known for Portugal’s oldest and one of the largest universities from the 13:th century.

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The university

Coimbra 1

The town itself is very beautiful

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With many old and nice buildings

Coimbra AirBnB 1

We stayed at an AirBnB in the house to the right in the picture, VERY central and interesting

Coimbra AirBnB 2

The flat had a nice roof terrace, suitable for breakfast or a glass of wine in the evening

In Coimbra they have a miniature “city” with models of important places both in and outside Portugal, well worth a visit especially if one has kids.

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the miniature city

Nazare

The next day we went to Nazare, but first we stopped at the Batalha Monastery, which is one of the most impressive religious buildings of Portugal. This Gothic monastery was commission by King João in gratitude for the decisive victory in the battle of Aljubarrota (1385), and the grand designs took over a hundred years to construct.

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The unfinished part, not the carving in the columns.

 

Nazare is an impressive place with fantastic beaches on each side of the massive cliff

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Nazare light house 1

With it’ famous lighthouse

Nazare is a very popular tourist place the southern beach is packed with people

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But of course Nazare is famous for the largest waves in the world and surfers came from all over the world to surf the massive waves, the largest waves ever surfed was in Nazare, 32 m high

Surfer 3

The lighthouse is 60 meters above sea level, by the arrow is a surfer

Surfer 1

Please Notice the surfer in the red circle

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An other surfers, and a few more..

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a 2 minutes film well worth to watch

a 14 minutes film about two Australian wanted to surf the most wildest waves on the planet, do not miss it.

 

On our trip we saw many scares from wild and forest fires, but also several smaller and larger fires some of them along the Douro Valley, with helicopters fighting the fires.

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took these pictures on the way back towards Porto

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Fire on distance when sailing further south along the Portuguese coast, a lot of smoke, sad.

Next stop Cascais ….

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Galicia

After we left A Coruna, we continued south to explore some of the Galician rias. One thing we quickly noticed, the weather was not very warm on the contrary it was rather chilly, and I have also understood that we had some luck with the weather, it could be rather windy and rainy, so we should not complain.

Camarias

Camarias is a small village not without some charm, it was some kind of festival when we arrived.

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We saw a procession of kids walking and playing bag pipes or Galta as it is called in across northern Spain. Until now I thought bag pipe was merely Scottish, but they do play it in Galicia as well.

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Camarinas town

We found this construction in the town

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Very nice construction does not know what it is used for, we guessed they were used for food storage in the old days, but later on we saw similar constructions and they looked more like tombs.

Of course, we have to try the local cuisine

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Have never been any big fan of scallops, but fresh out of the sea they taste good, so I will give it a few more tries.

 

Muros

Anchored outside the village Muros, we saw “harvest” of mussels

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We saw a lot of people walking in the water, first we did not understand what they were doing, but later it became very clear. They rake through the sand and mud looking for clams. It looked as a hard work

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The catch, which we of course tried later on at the local restaurant tasted great.

As you could see the area is very tidal, we anchored to close to the shallow area, so in the morning when we woke up we had to move rather quickly not to be caught on falling tide.

Just when we got our anchor down on the new spot another boat thought we left a good spot and dropped his anchor close to where we have had ours.

Not a very good move

I and another sailor tried to help him getting of the “ground” I took his halyard to my dingy with the 15 hp engine and try to heal him, but the mud held him in a firm grip.

A few hours later the tide lifted him of the mud and the only damage was to the captains pride.

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There is a marina if one does not fancy to anchor.

Muros has a beautiful church, Igrexa San Pedro its foundation is 13th centuries.

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Very beautiful stonework

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Old Tomb? Outside the church, construction very much like the” food store” we saw in Camarinas

From the clock tower one has a nice view of the harbor and anchorage.

The village itself is very nice indeed.

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The local “Mercado”

Isla De Arousa

 

South Anchorage/harbour Isla De Arousa

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Yet again festival, this time it was a clam festival, and of course we had to test the sea food

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Tasted good

There is also a north harbour, with a brand-new marina not yet opened, but haul out for the winter is possible for a rather reasonable cost.

After feast on mussels we enjoyed this magnificent sun set

Just south of our anchorage there is a small island Arenoso where locals spend the day enjoying life.

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And it is not difficult to understand why.

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It is very interesting rock formations on the island, looks as if they were shaped during an is-age, try to google but could not find anything about any ice coverage of Spain.

Leaving the island we passed this old Swedish Folk-boat

We wondered how it got there, but the owner did not spoke any English so we could not found out how.

 

Ensenada de Barra

A good and sheltered place to anchor just north of Baiona.

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De Barra anchorage and beach. One should not be prudish taking the dingy to the beach as it is a nudist beach, crowded with naked people. But it is well worth to land with your dingy because there are some nice trails out to the light house at Punta Robaleira

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Punta Robalei

On the walk we saw some very large pine cones

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And a chestnut tree

Baiona

Baiona is an old town founded 140 BC, currently ca 12000 inhabitant, well worth a visit.

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The harbor with its old forth, on one of the pictures one can see a replica of Christopher Columbus Caravel La Pinta, which was the first of Columbus ships to return from America to Europe, thus the people on Baiona was the first port to know about the discovery of America.

A tile wall describing the voyage of Columbus.

Walk around the castle is very nice

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Yet again we saw the strange isolated “tombs”

If anyone know anything about the please let me know.

It offers a great view of the Atlantic.

The town itself is well worth a visit

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Plenty of restaurants to choose from

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And we choose the right one, the calamari’s was one of the best we ever tasted.

Baiona was our last anchorage in Galicia, next stop will be in Portugal.

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A Coruna

I have read about A Coruna since I was a boy. It was always the port all sailors which started their cruising in Scandinavia made land to after crossing the fierce Bay of Biscay, seeking a well-deserved rest after encountering violent gales and massive waves. In their tales it was often with great relieves they found shelter in A Coruna, but I can’t remember anyone describing A Coruna, it was only about the crossing, I guess they were occupied with recovering themselves and repair what was broken. Of course, I built a picture of A Coruna in my head. I saw a small rugged but also cosy fishing village inhabitant by a handfull seasoned fishermen.  As we started our trip in the Mediterranean 4½ year ago I never got  the opportunity to visit A Coruna. Hence the detour via A Coruna on our way home to Lagos Portugal.

When arriving I quickly realize that my picture could not be more wrong, we arrived to a major historical town with ca 250 000 inhabitants

La Coruna

A Coruna Harbor

A Coruna is a very old town, 62 BC Julius Caesar visit A Coruna at that time called Brigantium. Another example of the very old history is Torre de Hercules, it is the oldest Roman lighthouse in use today. It’s structures 55 m was built in the second century and renovated 1791.

Torre de Hercules overlook the North Atlantic Coast and has helped many ships to safety over the centuries. Viking Björn Ragnarsson stop in A Coruna as he thought he saw a tower of Gold

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According to a myth that mixes Celtic and Greco-Roman elements, the hero Hercules slew the giant tyrant Geryon after three days and three nights of continuous battle. Hercules then in a Celtic gesture buried the head of Geryon with his weapons and ordered that a city should be built on the site. The lighthouse atop a skull and crossbones representing the buried head of Hercules’ slain enemy appears in the coat-of-arms of the city of Coruna.

Maria Pita

Maria Pita

Maria Pita (1565 1643) is a town hero from the battle against England and the privateer Francis Drake 1589. She took active part in the battle. She was at the defense line with her husband, after her husband was killed from a cross bow shot in the head, she toke a weapon and shoot an English soldier with a banner and then shouted “Whoever has honor, follow me!” ; and then they manage to drive the Englishmen off the land.

She was married 4 times, she must have been tough not only towards Francis Drake and his soldiers but also towards her own husbands!

Anyhow to her memory they have a festival lasting most of August, there are several scenes spread out in the city with various artist performing at no cost for the audience. To our surprise there was a concert with Patti Smith (if any young person read this she is a legendary poet and pop singer age 73)

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It was a lot of people attending on beach a very nice venue

 

A Coruna is very nice place indeed with both nice and impressive buildings

Such as the city hall and Square

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A Coruna is as most towns in Europe made for people and not for cars, which is a delight

A Coruna street view 4A Coruna street view 5

Street art is part of the city

Food Culture

The best of all by being back “Home” to Europe is the food culture. It is fantastic. Excellent raw materials

Such as

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Cheese, ham, wine and bread all excellent quality

or Sea food

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If you do not fancy to cook yourself, visit one of many good restaurants and enjoy very good food

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And all this excellent food at very reasonable prices. We have gormandized all kinds of delicious food, not good for waistlines but good for life.

Well there is a harbor in A Coruna also, I almost forgot that in my excitement for the place

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Part of A Coruna harbor in the Old Town.

We had e very pleasant time in A Coruna, meeting other yachties, A Coruna is highly recommended even if it far from an old weather-beaten fishing village that was pictured in my young head a long time ago.

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